Photo: Robert Fernandez

THE BITE: I don’t know when donuts took control of the police, but when I was a kid, the stereotype was always a cop and a cheese danish. I guess as Dunkin’ Donuts and the various 24-hour chains replaced the small mom-and-pop bakeries, donuts were just easier to obtain. The cop on the late night beat needed coffee to stay awake, and what better accompaniment than a donut?

Forget the donut – let’s go back the to cheese danish!

At A Taste of Sheepshead Bay this week, I was re-introduced to one of my favorite neighborhood institutions, T & D Bakery (2307 Avenue U – between East 23rd and 24th Streets). Their outstanding offerings of made-to-order canolli and mini pastries, reminded me of the wonders of the “mom-and-pop bakery.” It made me ask, and I hope it made you ask, why haven’t I been there lately?

A danish ($1.75 at T & D) is a wonderful thing. The pastry is made of a yeast and butter-filled dough that is rolled out and folded over many times to create a multi-layered, light and flaky puff that is filled with sweet baker’s cheese, fruits or nuts. Baker’s cheese is a fresh, soft and somewhat tangy cheese, similar to cream cheese or farmer’s cheese.

At T&D, they create a huge (4″ by 4″ by 2.5″) cheese danish that is filled with sweet cheese and topped with butter, egg wash and sugar. This incredibly light, but extremely filling confection is more than enough for a meal. Unlike many of  the offerings of its competitors, the cheese danish at T&D is moist and almost dripping with butter.

Have I finally found my perfect breakfast in the Bay? This danish is certainly a contender.

As The Fresno Bee stated in 1917…

But with the Danish pastry — you just tuck a small morsel under the tongue, roll up the eyes, say “Ah-h” as though there were a sky-rocket present, and it fades away and trickles down to the carbed-wire entanglements of the soul, a subtle something that clings like an opium eater’s dream.

The huge cheese danish, as we know it, is a strictly New York invention. If you trace the history of the danish, you will find that Vienna, Denmark and Austria all claim to have a hand in the creation of a “danish pastry.”  But, it was a Danish chef, MR. L. C. Klitteng of Isle of Laesoe, Denmark, who brought “the danish” to America and popularized it starting in the early 20th Century.

According to the July 1920 issue of the  National Baker, pg. 12, col. 1: School for Danish Pastry.

L. C. Klitteng, the authority on Danish Pastry, which he originated in the United States, and which has become so deservedly popular wherever introduced, announces that he has established his Danish Culinary Studio at No. 146 Fifth Avenue, New York City, and that students will be thoroughly instructed in this art of producing high grade pastry, either by practical demonstration or through a correspondence course.

Mr. Klitteng has introduced Danish Pastry in many countries and in numerous cities in this country, and has many convincing testimonials as to the large sales and profits made by those who have made known this delicious pastry to their local trade.

Trust me, the cheese danish at T&D Bakery is something not to be missed. Mr. Klitteng would be proud.

T & D Bakery, 2307 Avenue U, (between East 23rd and East 24th Streets), (718) 769-2267.

The Bite is Sheepshead Bites’ weekly column where we explore the foodstuffs of Sheepshead Bay. Each week we check out a different offering from one of the many restaurants, delis, food carts, bakeries, butchers, fish mongers, or grocers in our neighborhood. If it’s edible, we’ll take a bite.

T & D Bakery on Urbanspoon

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  • NSF

    Butterbun, which was on Nostrand off X, had the best pastries and bread that I remember from my younger days.

    • barkingspider07

      Oh – Butterbuns lattice apple pie. I still fantasize about it. The buttery shortbread style crust stuffed with apples and cinnamon.

    • brooklynq

      How is the Butterbun on Cross Bay Blvd? Any relation?

  • CakeLover

    A number of years ago, I bought a layer cake there that had such an awful after taste, that I brought it back and even though they didn’t want to give me back my money, they finally did. Never bought a cake there again. All the good neighbor bakeries are gone. Leons bakery had quality goods.

    • barkingspider07

      Leons cakes, rolls, etc were always dry and tasteless to me. Now, let’s talk about the old Weisens. They had some really good stuff, especially their mandelbrot.

  • http://www.brucebrodinsky.com Bruce B

    T&D is great, if I lived closer, I’d be much heavier!

  • nolastname

    The best. Where else can you get a twisted sesame roll for .30? Their breads are out of this world. They supply a few establishments with rolls. I thin RnR is one of them.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/34224145@N04/7187869208/in/set-72157627979314942

  • barkingspider07

    I have never liked T&D. I know people who love the place. I was never happy with anything that I bought there, even the bread. I’d rather drive into Bay Ridge to Villabate, where I know that everything is delicious and I’m not spending my money, only to throw it in the garbage can.

  • tinafg

    Great cannolis!

  • peppertree5706

    My wife, who loves to bake, says that most of what she sees in T & D and most other mom and pop neighborhood bakeries, is not baked on the premises but is baked in a central location and then sold by the bakeries. They may put the cream on the surface but the actual baking of cakes and cookies is done elsewhere. She showed me how the cakes and cookies look the same between one bakery and another.

    Very few of the stores have a fresh baked smell and few have a sign that says “baking done on the premises.” I have seen that sign on some Kosher bakeries but not on any Italian bakeries.

    Is she correct? She is pretty sure of this.

    • RFernandez

      No. T & D Bakes their goods on-site. As far as I know, and this is based on discussions with Josephine and Tina, the only thing not made on-site is the frozen pasta and the small sampling of groceries.